So there I was, three steps behind the Zeitgeist. Wouldn't it be
great, I thought, to find one of those old slow cookers, a
crockpot? Sure it seems kind of daggy but, with a few minutes'
preparation in the morning, I would be able to leave the machine to
its own devices, bubbling away on the bench, and come home to a
proper meal and the kinds of smells that are hard to replicate with
a humid plastic bag of takeaway.
Then I went to the shops and discovered there was nothing
original in my thinking. There were rows and rows of the cookers:
little ones, big ones, programmable ones with electronic settings.
It seems the crockpot is this year's answer to the foot spa: the
latest fad in small appliances.
After choosing a cheap one and lugging it to the car, I started
wondering about recipes, assuming I'd have to scour second-hand
shops for books devoted to slow cookers.
But there was no need to go second-hand. The slow-cooker revival
has been bubbling away long enough that there is now a genre of
cookery books devoted to its worship. A suite of titles has been
published in the past couple of years alone, including Slow
Cookers: The Slow Cooker Recipes You Must Have by Jane Price
and Slow Cooker: Easy and Delicious Recipes for All
Seasons by Sally Wise. In the past month alone there have been
another two books published which are dedicated to slow cookers.
(Although it must be said that for every hundred recipes about 90
involve some kind of meat in a brownish sauce).
Even the pressure cooker is enjoying a renaissance, traumatic
memories of grey beans and exploding pans having finally receded
from the collective conscious. An entire range of shiny metal
cookers is proudly displayed in a department store in the eastern
suburbs, alongside the title A Pressure Cooker Saved My Life:
How to Have It All, Do It All, and Keep It All Together, by
the newsreader Juanita Phillips, a guide to juggling work and
children as much as a recipe book. It follows last year's title
The Pressure Cooker Recipe Book: More than 80 Delicious Recipes
Using This Safe, Time-Saving and Energy-Efficient Way to Cook
by Suzanne Gibbs, a daughter of Margaret Fulton.
So what on earth is going on? The revival has been attributed to
a renewed interest in thrifty home cooking sparked by fears of a
recession. Both slow cookers and pressure cookers tenderise cheap
cuts of meat. And, in spite of anecdotal reports of cheap cuts such
as lamb shanks increasing in price due to rising popularity, they
remain much more affordable than the alternatives. In the past
three years lamb shanks have gone up 84¢ a kilogram, to $8.73, and
lamb cutlets have risen $3.60, to $29.77, according to retail
butcher prices from Meat and Livestock Australia.
But thrift is not the only driver. The other driver is lack of
time. Whether you are making an eight-hour risotto in a slow cooker
or an eight-minute one with a pressure cooker, in both cases you
are creating a proper home-cooked meal with only a tiny bit of
effort, and serving dinner within minutes of walking in the
door.
Taking these factors together, thrift and time, perhaps what the
revival is really about is a renewed interest in what used to be
called home economics, the kind that is about running an efficient,
modern home rather than retreating to fantasies of domestic
goddesses or elaborate gourmet cookery.
Home economics was not a popular high school subject for women
my age and younger because we were supposed to aim higher than
housewifery. And yet many of us are discovering that with the rise
of dual career families, deft home-making skills are more important
than ever, for both genders.
Anyone can order takeaway. The real challenge is finding
innovative ways to run a household so that the entire second income
is not eaten up by the cost of the scaffolding that makes it
possible, such as formal childcare, transport and takeaway food. If
only someone could invent a gadget to solve all that.
Originally appeared in The Sydney Morning Herald.
Reproduced with permission from Lisa Pryor.