For all their elegance and style, at heart the French are still
peasants.
Now Monsieur and Madame, before you start tossing a baguette
et fromage in my direction, try to understand that this is an
observation, not an insult. There is much to be said for humble
origins.
Indeed the French peasantry was responsible for delivering to us
some of the best food ever invented. Essentially simple, with a
profound sense of respect for the ingredients upon which it is
based, it was through their food culture that the French rural
classes staged their first revolution.
As with most Mediterranean cuisines, the true character of
French food lies in agriculture. Take great varietals of plants,
grow them well, and then distil from these the essence of their
unique flavour. It's a less-is-more approach that has stood the
French farmers in good stead for generations.
The truest example of this rule is the humble onion. We take
onions for granted so much of the time, considering them to be a
building block of recipes, never valuable in their own right. Yet
the chefs of Lyon, in France's east, took great pride in their
weep-inducing vegetable, and championed it above all others. After
centuries of pot stirring, they gave us the French onion soup.
Conceptually, this is a remarkably simple recipe. Take some
onions, and cook them gently (in a morass of butter I should
mention - so French) until they are sticky-sweet and lightly
caramel. This slow sauté converts the onion's sugars from
objectionably tart to tantalisingly delicious. This is
the basis of the soup.
Funnily enough, from there it's up to the chef as to what should
be done. Classically, most Lyonnais chefs will add brandy and beef
stock and reduce this mixture until dark and brooding, before
finishing with Gruyere toasts. That said however, I've had
extraordinary French onion soups made with a splash of crème
fraîche, or loads of herbs, or even a decent dash of anchovies.
That was unexpected, but equally tasty.
The only non-negotiable element of this soupy concoction is that
the soup should deliver a powerful punch of rich onion taste. Don't
be afraid to let this basic vegetable be the boss. As a great
French chef once explained to me: 'Edward, when you do less, the
ingredients can do more'.
See Fast
Ed's French Onion Soup recipe.
See all of Fast
Ed's recipes.
This article was kindly provided by Fast Ed.
It first appeared in The Manly Daily.