There are some things in life that, even with the greatest will
in the world, are simply not possible.
Unaided human flight for one. Perpetual motion for another.
Explaining Katy Perry and her so-called 'music' for a third -
seriously, to the father of an 8-year old daughter she's an
incomprehensibly poor role model.
And what of Portuguese custard tarts? Those delicate, egg-rich
treats found in almost every Australian café. Their combination of
feather-light crisp pastry and unctuously more-ish custard might
seem a natural combination, but when you drill down to the actual
technique involved, it's a challenge of Herculean proportions.
I don't mean to suggest that it's difficult just for home cooks
- the professionals struggle too. To put this into context, there
are only three suppliers of these tarts in the whole of Sydney, and
just two in Melbourne. Given the scale of the business opportunity,
you'd imagine that more bakers would have gotten onto that
particular bandwagon.
But there, as the bard tells, lies the rub. It's just not that
simple.
You see, the puff pastry on which they are made requires high
heat order to expand into layers and become crisp, yet the custard
filling is delicate and heat sensitive. Too much baking and it will
curdle. Perhaps the nearest comparison is deep-fried ice cream.
That dish needs both extreme heat for crunchy batter, and extreme
cold for the frozen centre.
There are several proprietary techniques that enable the
Portuguese bakers to achieve their uniquely luscious effect, one of
which is the use of a professional deck oven. While you can't
exactly replicate their methods at home, there are a few tricks
that will give you an almost-perfect homemade Portuguese custard
tart.
Firstly, baking with the fan turned off is a good-enough
substitute for the industrial ovens. Secondly, coil up sheet of
puff pastry, cut it into slices, then roll them out to line the
tins individually. This creates a pastry nearly identical to the
rough flaky pastry of Lisbon. Lastly, make the custard filling just
before you want to bake it - fresh custard will bake more evenly
for a more perfect tart
So perhaps I was wrong, you can master the Portuguese custard
tart. As for resisting them, well, that's really impossible!
Go to Fast Ed's Portuguese Custard Tarts recipe.
See all of
Fast Ed's recipes.
This article kindly provided by Fast Ed.
It first appeared in The Manly Daily.