With the benefit of hindsight I can't explain why I had never
visited Malaysia before, it just never made the list. Yet my recent
trip was a real eye-opener: Malaysia is wonderfully traditional and
excitingly modern all in the one package. But for all its beauty, I
was most thrilled about the food. It combines the best of
traditional Malay cuisine, with the finest Chinese cooking.
To find the real essence of Malay food means venturing out of
the polished heart of downtown Kuala Lumpur. This can be a
challenge in itself, because despite the Malaysians' national love
of rules and order, the roads are anarchic. Cars are stacked five
abreast on three-lane roads, with scooters bounding along the
median strips. Traffic lights seem optional and drivers think
nothing of mounting a kerb to overtake.
Yet it's in the rickety backstreets that you'll find the
traditional vendors who are the soul of old Malaysia. There's
rendang curry sellers, otak merchants with their
banana leaf-wrapped fish, and all kinds of grilled chicken wings
for sale. But most famous of all are the satay stands.
Satay originated in Indonesia, but soon spread throughout South
East Asia. Today, regional variations of satay are entirely
distinct, and within Malaysia there are two prominent styles:
Kajang and Nonya.
Satay Kajang is most commonly made with skewered chicken. The
meat is marinated with a light mixture of curry and spice before
being grilled over a coal fire. An aromatic peanut sauce is then
spooned over the top to serve. This is the style that emerged from
the indigenous Malay kitchens.
Nonya is the name given to the blend of Malay and Chinese
cooking that emerged in the 19th century around the
Penang rubber plantations. It reflects the Chinese predilection for
sweeter and more perfumed foods, often incorporating pineapple,
tamarind or mango into dishes. In Nonya satay, street sellers will
often marinate the chicken or lamb in mashed durian fruit, before
grilling or poaching. A sauce is then offered on the side, and the
Nonya satay sauce will always include a sweeter taste, usually
pineapple.
The essential informality of the satay vendors is a key part of
their charm. Locals gather around the stands at the end of evening
prayers, trading stories between bites. It's right there that
you'll find the real Malaysia: charming, hospitable and
irresistibly delicious.
Go to
Fast Ed's Satay Kajang with Light Peanut Sauce recipe.
See all of Fast
Ed's recipes.
This article was kindly provided by Fast Ed.
It first appeared in The Manly Daily.